Welcome. Today, we delve into a well-known name, Pecorino, but from a very specific angle, that of Arquata del Tronto. The information comes from the website of the Alto Tronto Association, which has a clear mission. Yes. To save, let's say, local traditions from oblivion. Exactly. And they focus on their Pecorino, defined as noble, original, native since always. This already makes it clear that there is a different story to tell. Oh yes, definitely. Their main thesis, well, it goes a bit against the current. They argue that in Arquata, historically speaking, Pecorino was not the white grape variety that we all know today.

Ah, no. What was it then? It was a wine, a specific wine, the result of a blend, meaning a mix, sometimes even of white and red grapes. White and red, no way. Exactly. And they say that the grape variety, what we call Pecorino today, they, well, for 1000 years they called it Verdicchio Bastardo Bianco. Wait, Verdicchio Bastardo Bianco, so a very clear distinction between the historical wine and the grape variety as we understand it today. Exactly. And this, of course, leads them to challenge the most common interpretations.

I imagine those about ancient origins, perhaps Piceno cited by Catone il Censore in the I a.c.. Precisely those they define as, let's say, fanciful, lacking concrete evidence linked to Arquata, at least. So no recent rediscovery. No, they insist on this point. They say there has been no rediscovery from scratch in recent decades. It has been continuous cultivation. Continuous by whom? The work of the local Benedictine monks. They carried it forward for centuries. It's a story of continuity, not interruption and finding again.

I understand. Very interesting. And the synonyms we find today on official documents, you know, the ampelographic sheets, like Vissanello, Norcino, how do they see them? They dispute them. Let's take Norcino. They explain, look, that wasn't a name of the grape variety, it just indicated the provenance. Meaning? Meaning the wine came from Arquata del Tronto, which was once under the influence of Norcia. It was a geographical indication, not a synonym for the grape. Ah, clear. And other names, sometimes associated like Promotico, well, they say they are genetically different, in short, they dismantle the standard version a bit.

Including the very origin of the name Pecorino, you know, the somewhat folklore stories. The sheep eating the grapes, the shape of the cluster. Yes, yes, they also judge those a bit simplistic, almost disrespectful to their land. Why disrespectful? Because they describe Arquata as a historical capital of Italian viticulture. So those popular explanations, for them, trivialize a much nobler and older history. And where is Arquata del Tronto located? For those who don't know, we are in the Marche region, in the province of Ascoli Piceno, and they emphasize a particular thing. It is the only municipality in Europe between two national parks.

Really? Which ones? The Sibillini Mountains on one side and the Laga Mountains on the other. A unique environmental context. And that's where the Alto Tronto Association operates. Exactly. Active since 2015, and since 2019, they have this Terra Divina project, specifically to recover this wine with, they say, over 800 years of history. Enormous work, especially after the 2016 earthquake. Imagine a truly commendable commitment in such a difficult situation, but do they have any external support, say, scientific, for their theses? Yes, they cite studies from Crea, which is the national research body for agriculture, and also the Consorzio Tutela Vini d'Abruzzo (Abruzzo Wine Protection Consortium). Both, according to them, would support the Arquata origin of this particular interpretation of Pecorino.

And there is another fascinating technical aspect that emerges, the cultivation a piede franco (on ungrafted rootstock). What does that mean in simple terms? Well, essentially, it means that the vines are not grafted onto American rootstocks, you know? Those that are usually used to resist phylloxera. Ah, okay. And so? So, according to them, these centuries-old vines of Arquata, growing on their own roots, are naturally stronger, more vigorous, and need fewer treatments. I understand. This links to the idea of a natural product by tradition.

Exactly. A direct link with the terroir, without mediation, and they also tell a beautiful story. After the earthquake, small local growers donated their grapes, precious grapes from these old vines, so that the project wouldn't die. A very strong sign of community. So, if we try to summarize the vision of Arquata, their Pecorino is not primarily the white grape variety we drink today? No, it's a heritage, a historical wine that could have been a white and red blend.

Linked to a grape variety locally called Verdicchio Bastardo Bianco and to ancient practices like piede franco. It's a specific identity that the Alto Tronto association seeks to preserve, an identity distinct from the more widespread and standardized interpretations. Exactly. It's a recovery that is also, let's say, an act of resilience, both cultural and territorial, after all they have gone through. And this leaves us with a final reflection, doesn't it? A question that naturally arises when reading these sources, namely, if this historical Pecorino of Arquata was indeed a blend, perhaps with red grapes, what must it have been like? What taste, what color, what sensations could it have given compared to the fresh, savory white Pecorino we know today?

Eh, good question. It opens up interesting scenarios, doesn't it? About the evolution of taste, about the history that sometimes hides behind a name we think we know well, a thought perhaps to reflect upon